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In 1987, I went to the hobby shop, and there's a modeling friend by the
name of Bill Ferrante. He said I just had to buy and build this model,
then paint it with "SnJ" Aluminum. "A 1/72 SCALE
MODEL?" I'm a
1/48th; 1/32nd; and 1/24th; scale model builder! Well I got it and
built it ! I think the kit was made by "Fujimi!"
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These 6 photos show how I attach the windscreen, after its' been sanded
to 2000 grit, polished out with "Blue Magic;" and painted on the
inside. You will note the "yellow" trim line on the inside,
which was
air-brushed on! This windscreen was very small, so it certainly was a
challenge to do what I do on my bigger models. I attach all my
windscreens with "Future Floor Wax !" After a day or two, I
apply
"micro dots" of "thin super glue." I then apply
generous amounts of the
thick super glue. A day or two later, I mask off the cockpit area, and
apply Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black paint. I start sanding the paint and super
glue off the fuselage and windscreen. If there is any seams that are
not completely filled, the black paint will let you know! At times, I
remove the black paint in a seam line area with denatured alcohol, and
add more super glue. I re-paint, and start sanding again until the seam
is filled. Again, you must sand down to 2000 grit and polish the kit
plastic with Blue Magic. You can re-scribe any panel lines at about 1200
grit sanding process. The Future seals the windscreen, and I have never
had any of my windscreen "fog-up" due to the super glue fumes.
Take a
spare kit, then just super glue on the windscreen, then watch it fog up!
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I added seat belts in the cockpit, while the rest was just "out-of-the
box."
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These photos show additions to the wing slat arms, including the red and
green wing tip lights. I use some 1/4" clear flat acrylic stock, and
cut out a small piece at a 90 degree angle. I attach it to the notch in
the wing tip with white glue or future. I scribe around the wing tip,
then remove the clear piece. This scribe line shows me the outline of
the light. I now know where to drill a tiny .010" diameter hole in
the
"center" of the clear part. I apply Tamiya clear red and green
to these
holes, then air-brush on SnJ to the clear part and to the 90 degree
cut-out in the wing tip. I re-attach the clear parts to the wing tips
with super glue, then cut and sand down to 2000 grit, and polish out the
wing tip lights with Blue magic. Sometimes I have drilled these little
holes too deep, and sand through them. You just have to remove the
clear part and start over!
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Look at how "flat" my nose gear tires are in this double photo with
Dave
Hansen! I finished the model just in time to enter it in our local
contest. It was a show stopper, and I knew I will win "First
Place."
"NOT TRUE!" When the awards were given out, it got a second, and
I was
upset. I found out that Dave was one of the judges, so after the
contest was over, I ask why my model took a "SECOND." Dave said
that my
nose gear tire's are "FLAT," including the main gears as well.
Dave was
the new modeler on the block, what did he know about model building?? I
was mad as all get out. I went home upset, then a day or two later I
took a good look at the model! "DAVE WAS RIGHT ON THE
MONEY." All the
tires were attached with white glue. I just set the model in some
water, off came the tires! I removed the paint and added between
.020"
to .040" thick flat styrene to the tires. The next 5 contests, the
model took FIRST PLACE! I gave Dave the nick name of "Flat Tire
Hansen." Dave moved from Silicon Valley several years ago.
Dave, if
your out there, just remember, you taught the master, that he too can
make mistakes; THANK YOU AGAIN! The moral is: No matter how good you
are at model building; you can also learn something from a less
experienced modeler! Dave and Bill Ferrante judged a 1/72 scale F-117A
of mine the next year! No! "The tires were not flat;" but
I had the
main gears backwards! Thanks guy's!
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These two photos show the model in my alignment jig for attaching the
gears.
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These photos show the finished model, including my awards at the 1989 IPMS/USA NATIONAL CONTEST- SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA U.S.A.
Looking back 13 years ago, I think it was an easy kit to build. I used
the kit decals, and cut around each letter and number. They are still
stuck tightly to the SnJ paint. I've only used Micro-Set and Sol decal
solutions for all of my models. It does the job for me.
I have more SnJ stories to be posted on ARC. One of them will be my
1/48 scale F7U-3M Cutlass.
Today is Sunday, June 24, 2001. I have to run! I will be 70 years
old
on the 26th. My wife "Tulutululelei - Caroline" is having a
double
birthday surprise for me and her cousin Mona. Mona was my "BEST
MAN" at
our wedding 39 years ago, come July 7, 2001! (Am I getting old or what?)
Happy Modeling
Rodney
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